BRADENTON — Harbor Isle is the last stop as you head west toward Anna Maria Island on SR 64. In 2020, Compass Hotel by Margaritaville opened on the narrow sliver of land, complete with a restaurant offering views of Anna Maria Sound. Floridays Woodfire Grill & Bar was recently relaunched with a new menu and management, providing Manatee County residents and visitors with another first-rate waterfront dining experience.
To be honest, beyond the stunning coastal ambiance, I was not terribly impressed with the eatery in its first incarnation. However, new executive chef Ken Gilcrest (formerly of the Bradenton Country Club) has created an inspired seafood-heavy menu that elevates the dining experience to match the serene setting. Gilcrest brings over 44 years of hospitality experience, and his scratch-made offerings rival any in the area.
We arrived rather famished from a day in the sun and started with the Loaded Lobster Quesadilla. I’m usually not one for lobster dishes that have the potential to see the delicacy overwhelmed by so many ingredients. However, stuffing cheddar jack cheese, lettuce, grilled poblano peppers, and grilled onions into the garlic tortilla somehow did little to mute the crustacean. The result was a profoundly satisfying starter.
For my entree, I wanted to try the lobster tail sans the accouterments, so I went with the Captain’s Mixed Grill, which included a cold water lobster tail surrounded by jumbo scallops and Key West pinks with a generous side of drawn house garlic butter. These are my three favorite proteins on the planet, and I was thoroughly impressed by each, although I found the lobster to be genuinely divine.
My better half opted for the Crab Stuffed Hogfish, and I was thrilled to see them bring a portion I knew she would be unable to finish. These sumptuous hogfish filets were perfectly prepared, stuffed with imperial crab, and then topped with panko crumble before being finished with a key lime remoulade. It was honestly one of the best presentations of hogfish I've yet to have and the most enjoyable fish dish in recent memory.
Entrees come with two sides. The hush puppies are what you’d expect and are generously portioned, while the horseradish-infused mashed potatoes really sing. We’re both fans of tomato-cucumber salad and found theirs quite good. The star, however, was the collard greens, which would have stood out even in a renowned soul food kitchen—perfection.
I would report on dessert, but there was simply no room. The craft cocktail menu, however, was quite impressive and well-curated for the setting. I had the classic Mai-Tai (Planteray 3 Star White Rum, Appleton Estate Signature Dark Rum, Cointreau, Fresh Lime, Orgeat, Cruzan Hurricane 137 Proof Floater), which was nothing short of sublime. Melissa went with the Original Painkiller (Pussers Original Admiralty Rum, Pineapple, Orange, Crème de Coconut, Freshly Grated Nutmeg) and found it flawless.
Mojitos, a full margarita menu, and other reimagined tropical standards round out a stellar drink menu, and I was happy to see my native beer, Yuengling, on the menu. An acoustic musician performing hits by artists like Jackson Brown, the Eagles, and John Mellencamp on the back deck where we were seated further elevated the ambiance of a romantic sunset dinner.
I had the chance to talk with General Manager Brian Keller while I was there, and I was impressed at how he spoke about his commitment to “winning back the locals” by working hard to present a consistently memorable experience. Keller has worked his way up through the staff at the restaurant and seems like just the right fit for delivering on opportunities for improvements he undoubtedly saw under previous management. Everyone loves a comeback story, and Floridays Woodfire Grill & Bar seems to be on its way to writing one.
Floridays is open daily for food service from 11 am to 10 pm and for weekend bar service from 11 am to 11 pm. Happy Hour is available Monday-Friday from 3 pm to 6 pm. Reservations can be made on OpenTable. The restaurant is currently taking reservations for Valentine’s Day weekend, offering a special $125 per couple prix fixe menu. For the Super Bowl, they will offer $1 wings (10/20/30) and $15 six-beer buckets (including Yuengling!).
Dennis "Mitch" Maley is a novelist, as well as an editor and opinion columnist for The Bradenton Times. In addition to his regular Sunday column, he hosts our weekly podcast and does travel features, as well as theater, restaurant, and wine reviews. He is a graduate of Shippensburg University and later served as a Captain in the U.S. Army. Click here for his bio. His books are available here.
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